Burgers Flout Tradition at The Cut – Orange County Register

The popular burger truck, The Cut, has opened its first brick and mortar, in Irvine — and it is a beautifully designed restaurant. This might be the prettiest restaurant on all of Alton Parkway. They took over what was another failed burger restaurant and completely gutted the place, installing custom banquettes and bleached hardwood floors, plus comfy Scandinavian chairs and designer lighting.

The burger meat is very high quality, a mix of fatty brisket and chuck that is perfectly cooked, so I have no qualms there. My biggest gripe is with the buns, which are as dense as bricks and go down the gullet as such.

I also wish they served a classic burger with lettuce, tomato and onion, but you’ll have to go elsewhere for that sort of thing. They don’t make that here, not even by special request, according to my waitress. The closest thing to a normal burger would be the one dubbed the “Savory,” which is made with bacon relish, Swiss cheese, aioli and what they call 3,000 Island sauce. It’s a messy affair, but that seems to be a theme here. Everything is made for maximum ooze, which might explain the excessively sturdy buns. The ooze comes primarily from soft cheeses and copious amounts of sauce, not necessarily from the meat patties.

The next best option might be the “Original,” which is made with American cheese and pickles. And if you really want something green on your burger, the only option is the “Sweet and Spicy,” onto which a thin layer of arugula is paired with bacon, honey-sriracha and pepper Jack.

Although I sorely miss the option of a classic burger, I still want to like this place, partly because the fries are so good. They make the fries from scratch with russet potatoes, which are twice fried to perfection and generously salted.

And ultimately I just like the elegance of this place. The beautiful stoneware dishes and the Luigi Bormioli stemware are nicer than the dishes and wine glasses at some of the best restaurants in Orange…

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